Story by Dave Eckert / Intro photo courtesy of Clandestino
Speakeasies, underground bars that require searching and even a knock or two on the door to enter, are having a real resurgence in the U.S., and Kansas City is no exception. But before I step into Kansas City’s speakeasy scene, I thought it appropriate to first give you some historical perspective,
The Volstead Act, which implemented the 18th Amendment in 1920, made the manufacture, sale, and transportation of liquor illegal. That led to the birth of the speakeasy. Within a year, speakeasies were popping up like morels all over the country. As for the name, it comes from advice given to patrons: ‘speak easy,’ don’t draw attention to where you are or what you’re doing.
It’s impossible to say just how many ‘true’ speakeasies exist in Kansas City, but I visited some interesting spaces around the metro to experience their vibe and cocktails and learn their stories.
Photo courtesy of Swordfish Tom’s
My first stop was the legendary Swordfish Tom’s, buried in the boiler room basement of a Crossroads building. Swordfish Tom’s is difficult to find, challenging to enter, and definitely worth the effort thanks to the amazing vision and creativity of owner Jill Cockson. “My first speakeasy was in Lincoln, Nebraska, my hometown, called The Other Room. It developed quite the following, but I wanted to replicate it in Kansas City. I was shown this space, and once I saw the boiler in the middle of the room, I knew this was the place,” Cockson shared.
Now nine years old, Swordfish Tom’s is a legend in the Kansas City bar scene. I had heard so much about both it and Cockson but had never been. It took all of five seconds of ambiance and two amazing hand-crafted cocktails to turn me into a lifetime fan. “Our patrons are people who want to be here. We’re not going to be everybody’s jam, but that works to our advantage. It also helps us that we don’t occupy prime real estate. I mean, how many businesses want, or actually seek out, a huge old-time boiler in the middle of their space?” Cockson posed.
Okay, so the space is super-cool, but before I move on, I have to say the cocktails are as creative as they are delicious. swordfishtoms.com.
Photo courtesy of Clandestino
Next, one of the coolest bars I’ve been to the world over – Clandestino in the back of Westport’s Brix Mexican Cantina. Walking through Brix into Clandestino is like walking into an enchanted forest. You are first greeted by intense darkness in a room with a communal table for larger parties. You then turn the corner into an even darker, more intimate space that houses the bar and a smattering of small tables. I was impressed by the design and execution of the room and absolutely blown away by the whimsically named, creatively presented, and stunningly delicious cocktails. The lighting and the music set the tone for the real scene-stealer at Clandestino – they play Mexican Bolero, which is like jazz, at a very low volume.
I asked Brix’s manager Miguel Alaniz for some background. “The cocktails are created by our mixologist and crafted individually. Every cocktail comes with a unique presentation and names that match the spirit of the drink,” Alaniz told me. My son and I tried three cocktails, but by far, the most memorable was the space’s namesake, the Clandestino, a citrus-dominated creation that was prepared tableside for us.
Unlike most speakeasies, Clandestino also serves food: delicious small plates. Combined with the ambiance and unbelievable cocktails, Clandestino is a can’t-miss Kansas City destination. brixkc.com
Last up, the newest of the spaces I explored – a cocktail bar is called In Good Company. Located in the heart of The Crossroads, In Good Company is the vision of hospitality veteran Cedric Ransburg. “I had been living and working in LA for 13 years, and I was moving back to Kansas City as a new dad. I wanted two things. First, I wanted my son to grow up in a city around family, and a city with a slower pace. Second, after bartending, managing in a hotel, and working for a brand, I saw what was possible in the hospitality industry, and I wanted to see if I could make it happen here, and make it happen on my own,” Ransburg told me.
Unlike Swordfish Tom’s and Clandestino, In Good Company is membership-based. I asked Ransburg why he chose that model? “We wanted to create a space, and an experience, that people wanted to be a part of and be invested in. We want to be an oasis – a place where you can come and chill after a stressful day,” Ransburg said.
To learn more, including how to become a member, visit igckc.com.
And remember, ‘speak easy’ for a great relaxing time and a superb cocktail.
