Story by Dave Eckert
These are turbulent times in the domestic wine world. Prices are up, production is down, wineries are closing and being sold at a pace not seen before, and a whole generation has decided they prefer other adult or non-alcoholic alternatives. Fortunately, as I found, there are a number of local wine lovers, sommeliers, and retailers working hard on your behalf and succeeding in these choppy waters.
One such person is Laura Lowry, a certified sommelier and owner of the excellent Platte City wine bar and brewery, Barley and Vine. Even in these tough times, Lowry’s business is up, though she admits it’s not always easy. “Availability is a big deal. Producers are making less because the market is declining. We also have distributors who used to have labels but no longer have those labels. So, you have wines that the customers really want, but you can’t get anymore,” Lowry explained.
Things get even trickier when you factor in price hikes. But, instead of throwing in the towel, Lowry is using the towel to mop up the wine mess and start fresh. She has a plan, and it’s working. “You find alternatives. I work hard to get to know my customers and what type of wines they like, so I try to steer them to other, more affordable and available, options that might satisfy their palate,” Lowry shared. In other words, adapt and adjust while always keeping her customers’ needs and wants in mind. That kind of one-on-one relationship works in any market, but especially in a difficult one like this.
I should also mention that Lowry sees a much brighter wine future ahead. So much so that she’s launched a series of wine country tourism trips in the near future. All aboard!
Craig Adcock sells a lot of wine through his wine club and his gourmet dining experience Table Ocho. He agrees with Lowry that to successfully sell wine in this environment, you need to be flexible. “You have to explore other regions, other options, and be willing and ready to change. As an example, I am bringing in some more affordable Burgundy from Mercurey this year. It’s rustic and may be hard to drink on its own, but hey, let’s pair it with some food!” Adcock exclaimed.
Adcock also says it’s important to network and trust the producers and distributors you work with. “It all comes down to personal relationships. Going off the beaten path with the wineries and wine regions is important. And, for me, it’s about keeping it small with independent, family-run wineries. There are challenges, but also opportunities. Some wineries, for example, are offering older vintages from their cellars at good prices. You just have to stay open to the possibilities that may pop up,” Adcock shared.
Barry Tunnel has been buying, selling, and promoting wine for some 25 years. As the General Manager of Tannin Wine Bar + Kitchen, Tunnel sees and feels all of the issues mentioned here daily. Yet, Tannin’s numbers are up and continue to improve. Tunnel says there’s no magic formula, just hard work and creativity. “We have a great clientele here that loves wine, so that’s an excellent place to start. But you have to keep your customers engaged, and we work hard to do that with our Wine Club Wednesday special themed tastings, and winemaker dinners,” Tunnel told me. “Then, there are special events like the recent Kermit Lynch wine takeover and our Rose Tasting, which featured 40 wines, eight tables, and all sorts of different styles and expressions,” Tunnell said. “The Rose Tasting is one of our biggest events of the year, and the fact that it’s a benefit for Bra Couture KC, a charity assisting uninsured and underinsured men and women battling cancer, makes it even more special.”
Having attended both the Kermit Lynch and Rose tastings, I can say Tunnel is 100 percent right in his stewardship of Tannin.
Finally, a couple of thoughts from yours truly on how to create your own positive wine experience without breaking the bank. First, seek out special sales and promotions around town. I’ve written here before about Cellar Rat Wine Merchants’ $100 case, which happens every month with different wines, great values, and an opportunity to try wines at a very affordable price you might not have otherwise. Second, seek out and develop a relationship with a knowledgeable wine consultant at your favorite wine shop. They can help guide you to wines that match your palate and fit your pocketbook. Lastly, don’t ignore the closeout shopping cart at your Missouri Price Choppers or Hy-Vees. I personally have found some true gems at jaw-dropping prices!
Now, if all that doesn’t work for you, I have one more suggestion: open a bottle of your favorite wine and pour yourself a healthy glass. Cheers!
