Story by Dave Eckert | Intro photo courtesy of Boulevard Brewing
They are the deepest, darkest, and most boldly flavored beers. They also sport the highest alcohol levels and require both a tremendous amount of skill and patience. I’m referring to barrel-aged beers, which you will find most often seasonally and in limited supply at a number of breweries and bars throughout the metro.
Those outlets include the beer and bourbon-centric Oak & Steel in The Crossroads, which is where I started my barrel-aged beer exploration with a tasting and chat with owner/operator Kyle Howard. “I was born and raised in the Kansas City metro. I’ve been drinking craft beer for about 20 years,” Howard shared.
Photo courtesy of Oak & Steel
I asked Howard what he enjoys about a barrel-aged beer and what some of his local favorites were. “I enjoy the big, bold flavors, the warming booze, and the complexity the oak aging adds to the base beer. As for local favorites, Alma Mader and BKS have the best barrel programs. Recent highlights from Alma Mader would be their Sixth Anniversary stout, Reflection Chamber, and Keeper’s Keep barleywine. Recent highlights from BKS would be In the Rye stout and Recollection barleywine. I’d be remiss if I didn’t also mention Pathlight’s No Touchy barleywine as well. Pathlight Brewing closed their doors at the end of June, but they made one of the best barrel-aged barleywines around. Their stout, Blix, was also well above average,” Howard shared.
Up at Barley and Vine in Platte City, head brewer Billy Campbell shared some thoughts about barrel-aged beers and his current place of employment. “We’re more than a brewery and wine bar-we’re a gathering place where good drinks and great company come together. Whether you’re craving a bold seasonal IPA or a beautifully aged red, you’ll find something worth savoring,” Campbell told me.
As for barrel-aged beers, Campbell says, for him, they were an acquired taste. “When I first tried barrel-aged beers, I really didn’t like them. The flavors were just too intense and off-putting to me. Still, I never wanted to write them off completely, especially as a brewer. I knew I’d eventually want to brew and barrel one, so I kept trying different ones, learning what worked and what didn’t for my palate. Now, I really appreciate the complexity and character that barrel aging can bring. It just took a little rebellion and experimentation to get there,” Campbell said.
Photo courtesy of Boulevard Brewing
So, what barrel-aged beers does Campbell favor? “First off, I love barrel-aged sours. There’s just something about the way the tartness of the sour interacts with the deep, oaky, and spice of the whiskey. I also adore Saisons aged in rum or white wine barrels. The funk and spice of the Saison base plays well with the sweet, tropical notes of rum or the crisp acidity and fruitiness from white wine barrels. And, of course, I love the really off-the-wall stuff – like the barrel-aged yuzu seltzer fermented with champagne yeast. It sounds strange, but it was incredibly refreshing and complex,” Campbell shared. It does sound strange, but if Campbell offered, I’d definitely give it a shot!
Finally, a chat with Quinn Reeder, Lead Brewer, Barrel Aging Program for Boulevard Brewing. Reeder has been with Boulevard for five years. His current position puts him right in the crosshairs of barrel-aged beers. “I oversee the production and development for our Smokestack Series and our barrel- and wood-aged beers, including wild fermented projects. My role focuses on blending tradition with innovation to bring complex, expressive beers to life,” Reeder told me.
Photo courtesy of Oak & Steel
Reeder has been in the industry for about ten years, but like so many others in the profession, his journey into suds began as a home brewer. In his case, during his college years. “I reached a crossroads between pursuing continued education or taking an opportunity to dive deeper into the brewing world. I chose the latter, and I’ve never looked back,” Reeder shared. He says he enjoys the complexity of barrel-aged beers. “I love being able to take a beer and push its expression beyond the limit- dialing it in past 10. Our approach to barrel-aging remains rooted in traditional practices. We don’t cut corners. It’s hands-on, thoughtful, and tactile, which brings a deeper sense of creation and innovation to every final product.
Reeder hedged his bets when asked to pick a favorite, noting that each release is unique. When pressed, however, he had this response. “Well, if I had to pick a favorite, it would be Proper Pour – a double barrel-aged stout that first spends 13 months in 18-year bourbon barrels before finishing for another six months in a blend of Cabernet and Port barrels. It’s bold, layered, and represents exactly what I love about the process of combining wood and beer!” Reeder exclaimed.
